Who Owns What in Whisky

Who Owns What in Whisky

(Click to enlarge)

American Public Media’s Marketplace created an interesting graphic last week, a chart that shows which conglomerate owns which whiskies. Knowing what I do about whiskies, it’s obvious that they started the chart with the four big companies on the left (Pernod Ricard, Diageo, Suntory, and Brown-Forman) and simply listed their owned brands on the right.

That’s the only reason why you could possibly exclude the Edrington Group and its ownership of popular brands like The Macallan, Highland Park and The Famous Grouse. Macallan is one of the most well-recognized single malt scotches and The Famous Grouse is is one of the most popular, and Highland Park is a fine name as well.

How about William Grant & Sons? Owners of Glenfiddich and Balvenie, two of my favorites. (can I get some love for the Balvenie DoubleWood?)

Oh, and let’s not forget the enormous United Spirits Limited, which is Indian based, and owners of The Dalmore, Jura, and Whyte & Mackay.

Finally, how they built the chart is also why you don’t see a lot of independent brands on the right, companies like D Johnston & Company (owners of Laphroaig) and

That said, this trend of big conglomerates buying up smaller companies (or simply merging with other large companies) is not unique to whisky. Or beverages.

It’s everywhere.

illusion-of-choice

(Click to enlarge), from Reddit

Personally, I have no preference. I like what I like and I’ll continue to buy more of it, whether they’re independently owned distilleries or ones owned by conglomerates. I’m pretty sure I have a bias towards the whisky distributed by conglomerates because that’s simply what I’m able to find in stores in the United States.

If you have a favorite “small” distillery not (yet) owned by a conglomerate, let me know in the comments!

Bourbon: Scotch Whisky’s Cheaper But Still Awesome Cousin

There’s a reason why a lot of folks think scotch drinkers are snobs – it’s a (relatively) pricey dram.

But so is anything that’s been stored in a warehouse for 12+ years and then exported over the Atlantic ocean. The reality is that scotch whisky is expensive because it’s often aged for a very long time and in another country. If we were to shorten the aging period and do it domestically, it’d be cheaper.

But wait! We do – it’s called bourbon.

By Scottish law (Scotch Whisky Regulations 2009), scotch whisky must be produced in Scotland from water and malted barley. It must also be matured in an excise warehouse in Scotland (aged for at least 3 years). So until it goes into a bottle, it has to remain on Scottish soil. There are, of course, other rules and regs but these are the ones that matter for the comparison between Scotch and Bourbon.

For a bourbon to be labeled as such in the United States (The Federal Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits), it must be produced in the United States from a grain mixture of at least 51% corn and aged in new, charred-oak barrels. Straight bourbon must be aged at least two years (if less than 4, the age must be listed on the bottle) but there is no minimum required aging period for other labels.

I know some of you will say that bourbon is different because it uses 51% corn with rye and barley instead of just barley. And you’re right, it is different. But is the difference that much greater than an Islay and a Speyside? Comparable.

I’d had a few bourbons before, Four Roses sent me some of their fine spirits in the past, but I really didn’t get a full appreciation of it until my friend Dave brought over a bottle of Basil Hayden Bourbon. We poured a few glasses of it neat and thoroughly enjoyed it. The price, around $40-45 per 750ml, puts it on par with some of my favorite scotches (Balvenie DoubleWood comes to mind).

Of the 23 Double Gold bourbons from the most recent SF Spirits Competition, ten could be had for $35 or less. In my research about affordable bourbons, I discovered this fantastic post by one of the judges of the SF Spirits Competition in bourbon, Fred Minnick. The next time I visit the local store I’m going to try to find a few of these gems, especially the $20 1835 Texas Bourbon (a search online showed it wasn’t going to be there :().

Do you enjoy bourbon? Do you have a favorite I should try?

How to Start a Fire in a Fireplace

I absolutely love sitting in front of a roaring fire on my comfy leather couch, a dram of whisky in my hand and a few hours to rest and relax. There’s something about flickering of the flames, the hint of firesmoke complementing the whisky, and having not a care in the world… for at least a few hours.

If you have a fireplace and haven’t yet enjoyed the marriage between a fire and whisky, you’re missing out. Starting a fire doesn’t have to be hard and it doesn’t have to take a lot of time.

Preparing Your Fireplace

First things first, let’s get your fireplace and chimney ready for a fire.

  1. Inspect, clean, and clear your chimney. If you’ve never used your fireplace before, you should get your chimney inspected. If you bought your home, you had it inspected and should have a report about it from the inspector. Sometimes chimneys are simply ornamental, because they’ve been sealed, and you’ll want to know that before you start a fire! If your chimney is operational, you’ll want to make sure it’s been swept and cleared of debris before you start a fire.
  2. Clean up your firebox. The firebox is the area that holds the fire itself, you’ll want to tidy that up a bit but clearing away some of the ash from previous fires. You want to leave a little bit of ash, about an inch or so, because it’ll insulate your fire, but don’t leave too much. Periodically clear out debris and discard it.
  3. Open the damper and prime the flue. The damper is essentially the door that closes your fireplace, and home, from the elements. The flue is duct the inside of the chimney. To open your damper, you may have to turn a knob in front of your fireplace or reach inside and push it open. Make sure it locks in place. If it’s closed, you’ll smoke yourself out of your home. Priming the flue just means lighting a small bit of paper so the smoke and heat rises, clearing out the cold air inside the flue (hot air rises, cold air falls… pushing back into your home) – depending on whether or not your chimney has a smoke shelf (this deflects downdrafts and rain from above), this may not be necessary.

Now you’re ready to start a fire!

30 Second Firewood Guide

The key to a successful fire is to have seasoned wood. Seasoned simply means it’s been sitting around for 12-18 months and had a chance to dry out. If it hasn’t had a chance to season, if it’s “green” wood, then your fire will have to work even harder to stay at the right temperature. The heat is being used to boil and “dry out” the wood, which is heat it can’t be used to keep you warm or maintain itself.

Each pound of wood generates the same amount of heat, hardwoods are simply denser and thus contain more heat. This makes sense because all wood is the same chemical composition, some woods are simply denser. If you’re not using a fireplace for heat, and it’s mostly for fun and looks, a denser wood means you have to add fewer logs and can enjoy the fire longer. (fireplaces aren’t great heat sources anyway)

If you can find dogwood, holly, birch, oak, hickory, apple, or maple – you’re in pretty good shape. Here’s a list of firewoods and their BTUs, just to get an idea.

If you’re out collecting wood, be sure to collect a decent amount of kindling too. You’ll need this to start a fire.

Starting a Fire

My favorite way to start a fire is known as an upside down fire, which I was turned onto by Tim Ferriss. The premise is simple, take large logs and layer the bottom of your fireplace. Put smaller logs and put those on top of the larger logs. Follow that up with kindling and leaves and newspaper, basically anything easily combustible. He used firestarter squares or sticks, that’s the best alternative if you don’t kindling.

The idea behind this is that the material burning at the top will burn into embers. Those embers just burn onto the layer below. Hot embers resting on dry wood is a recipe for more fire. Your layers must have no gaps for the embers to fall through, so pack them in tight.

The hidden benefit to this strategy? No maintenance.

Here’s a video about it:

In fact, you shouldn’t do anything to it because it manages itself and you’ll just mess it up. 🙂

How to Drink Whisky with Richard Paterson

Great video with Richard Paterson of Whyte & Mackay teaching duty free staff how to drink whisky (first two minutes cover the how, the rest cover tasting notes for some of their brands). When I first started drinking whisky, I was doing it wrong. I was nosing it properly and I was holding the glass right, but I wasn’t holding it in my mouth long enough. The next time you drink whisky, hold it. Then hold it a little longer.

After only a few seconds, something magical starts to happen when it begins mixing with the saliva in your mouth. It feels like the taste buds on your tongue awaken and open up, letting the flavor in. It’s actually quite amazing once you start to do it and that’s where the real fun is (and close your eyes).

My favorite part? When he pours a little into the Copita glass and then pours it out. He cleans a glass with whisky! (when he has a conversation with the whisky is a close second favorite)

Tullamore D.E.W. – Parting Glass Short [Video]

Tullamore D.E.W. is a triple distilled Irish whiskey that is a blend of three types of Irish whiskey – pot still, malt, and grain. D.E.W. stands for Daniel E. Williams, who started shovelling malted barley and sleeping in the hayloft. Eventually, he would become General Manager and ultimately owner of the distillery – which is why his initials are on each bottle.

I don’t know much about Irish whiskey, certainly not as much about Scotch, but this two and a half minute video did romanticize it for me and I’ll have to seek it out on my next trip to the store.

Beautiful video and great sentiment.